Take-up lever problems occur when the lever isn't threaded. Or not threaded properly. So always check that you have threaded the lever. It is
There is a proper way to take measurements to give
Vintage Pattern Sizes Size: Measurement 1940's 1970's 1990's 12 bust 30"/76.5cm 34"/86.5cm 34"/86.5cm 12 waist 25"/63.5cm 25 1/2"/ 65cm 26 1/2"/67.5cm 12 hip 33"/84cm 36"/91.5cm 36"/91.5cm 14 bust 32"/81.5cm 36"/91.5cm 36"/91.5cm 14 waist 26"/66cm 27"/68.5cm 28"/71cm 14 hip 35"/89cm 38"/96.5cm 38"/96.5cm 16 bust 34"/86.5cm 38"/96.5cm 38"/96.5cm 16 waist 28"/71cm 29"/74cm 30"/76.5cm 16 hip 37"/94cm 40"/101.5cm 40"/101.5cm This information was put together
There are a number of different types of seams that